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Dislikes assholes
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EP3 Jackson Racing Supercharger FAQ
What is a Jackson Racing Supercharger kit?
It's basically a belt driven air pump that pulls air and gas into the motor which in return creates more horsepower. This is a slightly complex modification, which is harder to install than a CAI or RH. Anybody with the proper tools, a place to work on their Ep3, instructions, and a little time however can install this without any problems. Jackson Research at www.supercharger.com makes a kit for our 2002-2005 Honda Civic Si aka the Ep3. The current JRSC for the 2002-2005 Honda Civic Si uses the Eaton Gen IV M62 Supercharger. The supercharger is made by the Eaton Group (see their supercharger page) but all service and aftermarket work is done by Magnuson Products, Inc. (see their supercharger page). What am I looking to get for wheel horsepower with this kit? That depends. Jackson has a "street" and a "race" version. The street version will add between 30 and 50 horsepower at the front wheels. (see STREET KIT DYNO.) (see official RACE KIT DYNO). *Cliff Notes - Please notice that Jackson has compares a totally stock Ep3 with a low baseline to a supercharged Ep3 that not only has a JRSC, but also race header and a larger exhaust, so the gains are not all from the JRSC, but are an extension of the other modifications on the engine which will result in higher whp. **Cliff Notes - Also notice that the average RACE KIT owner seems to make in the neighborhood of 205-215whp with the 3.8" pulley. Some Ep3 owners however have made up to 235whp(jerseyjew from Ephatch) or 244whp(Oogy-Boogy from Ephatch) on stock top and bottom ends. Panathrasher(another Ep3 owner) made in the neighborhood of 255whp with the addition of Brian Crower Stage II cams for the K20a3, K24a1, and K24a4 heads, while at the same time losing a lb. in boost. So cams seem to be a very good addition to the RACE KIT. Does Jackson have different "race" versions? Yes, Jackson Racing has upgrades for their basic 5psi STREET kit. It consists of a smaller pulley (4.0") that increases boost from about 5 psi to 7 psi. It also requires a different Hondata ECU reflash and adds larger 440cc injectors to the mix. You could also do what some call the "ghetto" race kit and run the powercard with 310cc injectors and the 4.0" pulley. That has been tried before and seems to have great results. Can I break into the 13's with the RACE kit? Yes, Jerseyjew another Ep3 owner has a RACE kit tuned by Jeff Evans that puts out in the neighborhood of 235whp and has run as fast as a 13.3 timeslip. Fsugatorbait yet another member ran a 14.2 with just the standard STREET kit with full bolt ons. So yes it is possible with the correct driver and the proper setup(CAI/maxbore/4.0" pulley/440cc injectors/Kpro/RH/E/drag radials). My friend says turbo is better, is it? This is an age old discussion. Generally, people who want an "all motor" feel seem to buy a JRSC kit. It tends to have less top end power than a turbo, but many people prefer the instant response and more linear power of a supercharger. Plus as a whole the JRSC kits are considered more "reliable" as a whole. How much do the JRSC kits cost? The street has a list price of $2,395.00. The race version with ECU reflash is $2,795.00. The race version with Kpro is $3,395.00. They also have a version with NO ECU management system at $2,695.00. How much does it cost to install it? I wouldn't pay much over $650 MAX. It most likely could be had for much less, closer to $350-$400. What will my mpg be? I've heard anywhere from 24mpg to 30mpg highway depending on the driver and how heavy he is on the throttle. Typically the supercharger is only in boost 5% to 10% of the time. The rest of the time the bypass valve is in operation which keeps it out of boost and helps your gas mileage. Won't the SC drain power from my engine when it is not on boost? Quote:
The STREET kit is CARB (California Air Resources Board) legal and you get a sticker to prove it. The race version on the other hand is not. Many Ep3 owners who are in CA have opted buy the STREET kit for the CARB sticker and build off from it at a later time. What are the essential differences between the RACE and STREET kits? There are very little differences. Installation is identical in both scenarios except the STREET kit requires you to solder the powercard to three wires of your ECU harness. Also the RACE kit also uses a ECU reflash developed by Hondata for Jackson, and it also comes with 440 cc fuel injectors instead of the stock 270cc, and a MAP relocator. Hondatas' Kpro programmable ECU is probably the best option and can accomodate boost levels of up to 11 psi with the stock MAP sensor. Can the STREET kit be upgraded to the RACE kit? Yes. First you need to purchase a 4.0" pulley. Secondly you need to relocate your MAP sensor. Thirdly you send in your ECU/immobilizer/key to Hondata and get back a reflashed ECU and fuel injectors or upgrade to Kpro. Existing Hondata customers get a price break. Will the JRSC work with my intake/header/catback? They should work fine. There are however optimal headers, intakes and exhausts that seem to provide more power than others. For example headers and exhausts, especially can be a problem. With a header you want larger primaries with a larger diameter collector. To get full power, you also want a larger diameter exhaust. There is debate over using anything bigger than 2.5" ID however. Most dynos have shown little to no difference in upgrading to a full 3.0" OD exhaust over the 2.5" ID exhaust. As for a CAI, I'd recommend to use a RSX-S specific CAI as the piping is 3.0" vs the 2.5"-2.8" that the Ep3 CAIs come in. What SRI or CAI will provide the most power to my JRSC? Everybody says that a CAI will work much better than a SRI. Hondata also says they have seen between a 0.3 to 0.4 psi of extra boost from using a SRI over a CAI. So with the proper CAI you should expect 5whp to 12whp (depending on supporting modifications) more than from a SRI. Again I recommend the RSX-S CAI as its larger and you'll benefit more from it. Is more boost always better? Quote:
It all depends on how good of a mechanic you are. The JRSC is still considered a "bolt-on," but there are quite a few tricks and many parts involved. Since I've been around I've heard of DIYs taking anywhere from 4 to 16 hours. Sometimes even longer depending on installation problems. One of the main issues also seems to be getting the belt tightened correctly. This is VERY important and VERY time consuming. While you are doing all of this, it is recommended that you at least get ESMM to limit wheel hop from the added power. Can I install the JRSC myself? If you have basic knowledge of lefty loosy and righty tighty and more importantly have the correct tools for the job, you and a friend can install it in one to two days. Make sure to read the instructions carefully and precisely. Then take your time and double and triple check everything you do. Is there a good instruction manual or DIY on how to install the JRSC? Jackson Racing now Moss Motors (www.supercharger.com) itself has detailed installation manuals for both the street and race versions that you can obtain online or download in .pdf form. Do I need new spark plugs after installing the JRSC on my Ep3? In one word, yes. Jackson Racing and now Moss Motors both recommend that you use plugs one or two steps colder than the stock plugs. Spark plug company NGK recommends one step colder for every 75-100 hp added. What problems are people who have the JRSC installed running into? Breaking belts and problems with the original and since redesigned tensioner are by far the biggest concerns. Traction is also an issue. Motor mount inserts are recommended but not needed. They will keep the engine from vibrating or jerking around too much, so to most people they will be important. So belts are a problem? Belts and even our tensioner seem to be a problem for our JRSC. It seems to not only be us but all Eaton blower kits in general. Always keep an eye and ear on your serpentines belt. Properly install it and take your time to get it finished correctly. Often you'll also have to frequently adjust the tightenting of the tensioner. Even a belt that seems to be installed just fine may, in fact, be slipping. Some Ep3 owners have been on the same belt for years with no problems, while others have not. What exactly is the problem then? Unfortunately it is not as easily explainable as a belt or pulley problem. The problem is the tensioner that Jackson Racing developed and designed to use with our kit. Unforutunately a manual tensioner is what we have to use until someone comes up with or designs a automatic tensioner system. What if my belt breaks? That's a good idea. tt061880 and Conrad from clubrsx.com suggest to "never forget to always have the "JRSC ROAD KIT" in the car at all time, it consists a 12mm wrench and a replacement belt." Sometimes you should also have a few other tools including a razor blade and 13mm wrench to make sure you can change your belt on the side of the road. Where do I find a new belt and what belt fits my RACE or STREET kit? You can go to most auto parts stores on pick up the belt you need. The main thing to know is the part number, size and how many ribs you need. Mustclime below states exactly what is needed to help everybody out. Quote:
Technically yes. A heavily modifed car will not likely be traded in without hassle from the dealership you are dealing with. People are also hesitant to buy "tuned" cars as they workmanship sometimes seems to be of a shotty or "ghetto" nature so that can also steer people away. A better alternative is to remove your JRSC and reinstall your OEM parts then sell your Ep3, although we all would hate to see/hear that hear at clubep3.net. Will I like my JRSC? Would I ever want to sell it? Most who have a JRSC installed seem to really enjoy themselves and the car. Most seem to agree that the JRSC adds the power that they wanted at a reasonable price and has great reliablility for a DD. The few people who don't seem to like their JRSC, seem to be the ones who sell out and buy some type of turbo kit or opt for a K20a or K20a2 swap. Peronally I think the JRSC adds the power the car lacked in the first place. There will always be room for more potential, but don't expect 400whp and blowing by anything that moves. If you add Skunk2 or Brian Crower cams and a 3.8" pulley, you'll always have a smile on your face with the 250whp that is only a depressed gas pedal away.
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Islanti is a scammer and a tool! That is all. Last edited by RSX-S-NY; 04-25-2008 at 09:24 AM. |
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#2 |
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ride height Nazi
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I suggest you remove the rsx stuff from this. On the ep3, there is no ps pump isses, no need for the alt spacers and a like. The ep3 install is much easier than the rsx one. Another little trick is the ep3 cai's are for the most part 2.8 inches in dia, switching to a type-s cai ( 3 inch)nets a nice gain with the jrsc.
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RSX A-Spec suspension kit, DC5 tierod ends swaybars stock 25.4mm hollow ft, cusco 25mm solid r camber Hotchkis camber plates bushings energy suspension F/R, brase Progress in the rear, brakes Hawk hp+ R,willwood 12.2 bbk f, removed splash shields in front and a Quaife
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#3 |
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-Taste The Rainbow-
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also try and find the belt sizes for race kit and street kit (chiming in musty)
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2004 NHBP Civic Si ClubEP3.net Mod: General Discussion DIY Garage West Coast Regional GangBangMisaKrew #1
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#4 | |
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Dislikes assholes
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Quote:
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Islanti is a scammer and a tool! That is all. |
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#6 | |
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Dislikes assholes
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Quote:
I did note to use a RSX-S CAI in another thread, I'll add it to this page too. But you're completely right they are even sometimes smaller than 2.8", sometimes closer to 2.5" ID. +1 rep Musty. Don't have any belt sizes or part numbers. If somebody has them and posts them, I'll add them to the FAQ. I run a 62.2" 6 rib myself as I have a RSX manifold and K20a2 crank pulley on my K20a3.
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Islanti is a scammer and a tool! That is all. Last edited by RSX-S-NY; 04-23-2008 at 01:36 PM. |
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#7 |
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ride height Nazi
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I can get you a gates pn tonight is you really need it for the 4.0 pulley.....I "think" I remember the race kit was a 1/2 inch shoter that the street kit.
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RSX A-Spec suspension kit, DC5 tierod ends swaybars stock 25.4mm hollow ft, cusco 25mm solid r camber Hotchkis camber plates bushings energy suspension F/R, brase Progress in the rear, brakes Hawk hp+ R,willwood 12.2 bbk f, removed splash shields in front and a Quaife
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#8 | |
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Dislikes assholes
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Quote:
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Islanti is a scammer and a tool! That is all. |
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#9 | |
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ride height Nazi
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Quote:
street kit "dayco" pn# 5070630 The dayco belts look like the goodyear gatorbacks but they are not even close, I am very happy with the preformance of the gates belt. fyi, the part numbers for these belts have all the info in them....k070622 = 7 rib, 62.2 inch long belt....the 5070630 = 7 rib, 63 inch long belt......at least thats what my parts guy told me...
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RSX A-Spec suspension kit, DC5 tierod ends swaybars stock 25.4mm hollow ft, cusco 25mm solid r camber Hotchkis camber plates bushings energy suspension F/R, brase Progress in the rear, brakes Hawk hp+ R,willwood 12.2 bbk f, removed splash shields in front and a Quaife
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#10 | |
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Dislikes assholes
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Quote:
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Islanti is a scammer and a tool! That is all. |
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#11 |
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JRSC Crew
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hey i have the street kit now, and i have the race kit sitting in my garage. i am getting k-pro right now, but i was thinking of doing the "ghetto" kit for now. what do i have to do, just put on the 4" pulley and leave the injectors? also whats the probability of me breaking something on this setup. btw i have 1 step colder plugs idk if that makes a difference
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http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...epskidcopy.jpg |
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#12 |
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Master Member
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dont do that! I have the race kit and the stock injectors Luckily i have k-pro and you would be suprised at how often you get "lean-cut" from the injectors not spraying enough fuel. But for the ghetto race kit it is the 4.0" pulley, powercard, new belt and 310cc injectors (RSX). I think that is it.
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#13 | |
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ride height Nazi
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Quote:
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RSX A-Spec suspension kit, DC5 tierod ends swaybars stock 25.4mm hollow ft, cusco 25mm solid r camber Hotchkis camber plates bushings energy suspension F/R, brase Progress in the rear, brakes Hawk hp+ R,willwood 12.2 bbk f, removed splash shields in front and a Quaife
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#14 |
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ride height Nazi
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race kit belt.....Goodyear Gatorback Belt (Part #4070622), to run the 3.8 pulley, use the same belt but get the type-s tensioner pulley to take up the slack.(type-s=2.5 inch to ep3=2 inch)
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RSX A-Spec suspension kit, DC5 tierod ends swaybars stock 25.4mm hollow ft, cusco 25mm solid r camber Hotchkis camber plates bushings energy suspension F/R, brase Progress in the rear, brakes Hawk hp+ R,willwood 12.2 bbk f, removed splash shields in front and a Quaife
Last edited by mustclime; 05-05-2008 at 10:04 AM. |
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#15 |
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ride height Nazi
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He broke out of the 13's??!!!!
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RSX A-Spec suspension kit, DC5 tierod ends swaybars stock 25.4mm hollow ft, cusco 25mm solid r camber Hotchkis camber plates bushings energy suspension F/R, brase Progress in the rear, brakes Hawk hp+ R,willwood 12.2 bbk f, removed splash shields in front and a Quaife
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#16 |
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UKDM > JDM
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Just heard back; it was 13.99 I saw. I am a moron. Sorry.
I'll delete this post at the end of the week to keep this faq clean. Last edited by jimmyjames; 05-06-2008 at 08:36 PM. |
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#17 |
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SheLikaDaWayDaDeekTaste
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Pretty sure Joe's still in the 13's
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#20 |
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ride height Nazi
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as far as I know, its a bar coded sticker on the housing....I have not seen any stampings on my blower.
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RSX A-Spec suspension kit, DC5 tierod ends swaybars stock 25.4mm hollow ft, cusco 25mm solid r camber Hotchkis camber plates bushings energy suspension F/R, brase Progress in the rear, brakes Hawk hp+ R,willwood 12.2 bbk f, removed splash shields in front and a Quaife
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#22 |
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ride height Nazi
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on the ep3, its on the top on the big part of the housing closest to the nose( nose = pulley end)....that would put it on the on the motor side of the blower for a dc5.
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RSX A-Spec suspension kit, DC5 tierod ends swaybars stock 25.4mm hollow ft, cusco 25mm solid r camber Hotchkis camber plates bushings energy suspension F/R, brase Progress in the rear, brakes Hawk hp+ R,willwood 12.2 bbk f, removed splash shields in front and a Quaife
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#23 | |
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pipes
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Quote:
thanks man... lookin at an 04 s/c ep3 and owner wasn't sure if it was the street or race ver.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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#24 |
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Senior Member
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hi guys...i need help about the jrsc!!
i have a EURO civic type r EP3 my2004...my engine is the k20a2 of acura rsx-s but i don't have the pump steering because is a ep3 and i have the EPS I have buy a jrsc race kit for civic si ep3 from supercharger.com, race kit without ecu because i have kpro hondata now in my car.. but i read that kit is without map relocator bracket...what is???i need it for install?? how many psi i can have with the stock pulley race kit (4.00"???) and k20a2 cp??? i also have the AC in my car..this is a problem?? |
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#25 |
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ride height Nazi
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I suggest you call the people at moss..(superchargers.com) and ask them. Your motor has the water cooled oil cooler and thus the larger water pump housing that fouls the ep3 intake.....you may also have a different belt alinment and with superchargers, belt alinment is everything.
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RSX A-Spec suspension kit, DC5 tierod ends swaybars stock 25.4mm hollow ft, cusco 25mm solid r camber Hotchkis camber plates bushings energy suspension F/R, brase Progress in the rear, brakes Hawk hp+ R,willwood 12.2 bbk f, removed splash shields in front and a Quaife
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